Thanks to Tim Olson for providing this wing stand design. I did make a few minor changes. I used a 2x6 for the horizontal support (Tim used a 2x4). The 2x4 would have been fine. In fact, with the 2x6 there is minimal clearance between the leading edge and the 2x6. I also used 2x4 bracing to support the vertical leading edge supports. Tim used a ply wood triangular brace on the outside. Although the ply wood brace is working this is the only area that Tim recommended a change. Click here or on one of the pictures below for more photos
Through the construction of the empenage I found many of the rivets specified
by the plans to be
shorter that needed. Click
here
for the list of rivets I changed. In section 5D of the RV-10 Builder's Manual it says, "Note: There are times when the correct rivet length is not available. Depending on the application a shorter rivet can be used or a longer rivet cut to the proper length. Using a longer rivet, as is, can result in the shank being bent over like a nail. We have chosen to use a rivet that may seem to short in some places, but will do the job adequately." I have chosen to use the properly sized rivets. Getting some fractional sized AN470AD4-4.5, 4-5.5, and 4-6.5 rivets will make chosing the proper rivet much easier.
Avery makes a rod end bearing tool, and some have made the tool out of PVC pipe. Mine was simple. I took a paint stick and put a counter sink in the stick with a 1/2" drill bit.
Then a pair of parallel grip type pliers did the job. Not the most elegent and not it takes some time to get the tool in place, but it worked.
Page 10-21 step 3, when riveting the bell crank ribs to the forward bottom skin you may want complete step 3 prior to step 2 and rivet the bell crank ribs to the forward bottom skin first and then squeeze the bellcrank rib angles to the ribs. This would make the riveting to the bottom skin much easier.
When match drilling or riviting skins use a pick to align the holes.
Copyright 2005.
A Van's RV-10 Construction Log